Hi there, it's been a while! 2020 has been a wild year. It's been a couple of months into the new year now. I've taken some time to ground myself. Hope you had a great start to 2021 too.
2020 hasn't been a great year for traveling. Though if you saw the last post on BringEZBack (Finding the beauties surrounding you), I hope you got inspired to explore your neighborhood and enjoyed some staycation instead. Let me know if you've explored your neighborhood and discovered some hidden gems or reconnected with your immediate surrounding.
Today's topic is helpful if you are dreaming about some warm salty breeze in the freezing cold or looking into temporarily relocating to some warm islands. If you want to stay domestic but still crave for some islandy vibes, know that your wishes can be granted.
*Enters Puerto Rico.* I know. I know. There seem to be many contenders like Hawaii, Key West in Florida, Catalina near Los Angeles, or even Long Island in New York. However, none of them is like Puerto Rico. Even from *r*eading its name with the rolled r's, you know that you will get some Spanish flare from this magical place. Yes you are right! Puerto Rico has many of the Caribbean charms without giving you the trouble of traveling overseas, dealing with a different currency, or saying goodbye to many of your favorite American fast food chains. Can it get better than this? Oh well, yes if you know the right places to hit up in PR! Today I'll give you a list of restaurants, scenic outdoor spots, tourist attractions, and culture tips for you to get the best out of your PR trip, be it a quick excursion or a long-term relocation.
Before we get started, I want to set up some culture background. The relationship between mainland US and PR is almost like PR is the middle child of US. It is almost always forgotten but still blood-related. Especially with the latest hurricane crisis, parts of PR are still left in distraught. That being said PR has developed so much in the past decade. So if you are still under the perception that PR is a no-man's island, a visit to PR will really change your mind!
Alright. Enough scene-setting. Let's get started! Vamonos (let's go)!
Culinary Scenes
There are so many places to recommend. Even if you can't hit any of the places listed here, at least do yourself a favor a try the following things:
Passionfruit juice / Jugo de parcha (in a mojito or on its own) - You just have to! Passionfruit is so fresh and delicious here. I'm salivating even just thinking about it.
Guava juice / Jugo de guayaba (in a mojito or on its own) - It's such a tropical staple.
Mofongo - It's a traditional PR dish with fried plantains and your choice of protein. Can you even say that you visited the Caribbean's if you haven't had plantains?
If you do have time to meander then I listed all of my faves here. This is an all inclusive list so cafes, bars, restaurants, and food courts are all mingled together. I've included one-liners for most so it's easier for you to pick and choose.
Old San Juan
Raices - Highly Recommend!
Cafe Manolin - No frills Puerto Rican Diner
La Verguenza - Definitely a party central. Gets really busy.
Barrachina - (Supposedly) The birth place of Pina Coladas.
La Factoria - Such a bougie bar!
Cafe Cola'o - Love their baked empanadas
Spiga - Known for their house bread
Cafe Cuatro Sombras
Condado
La Marqueta - A fancy food court by the beach
El Corner - A corner store with snacks, fun drinks, and healthy options
Pinaloka - Best Pina Colada I've had
Senor Paleta - Quintessential PR popsicle shop
Explore! There are too many to recommend and some can get too crowded.
Ocean Park
Tresbe - Super hipster food-truck style outdoorsy restaurant
Kasalta - Obama has been here. Have you?
Dulcesalado - Modern and electric
Bottega - Decadent
Santruce/Miramar
Jungle Bird - Fun drinks!
Que PezCao - Good seafood in "Central Park"
La Placita - a Plaza with lots of food stalls where lots of locals visit, mingle, and dance
Lote 23 - The OG food truck park with tons of food options
Miramar Food Truck Park - a rip-off version of Lote 23
Casita Miramar
Rincon
The Beach House - Gives me beachy Santa Monica vibes
Ricomini Bakery - Good breakfast/coffee spot
Luquillo
La Parrilla - Super popular seafood stall
Nativa Latin Cuisine - Little-known sister restaurant of La Parrilla. If you can't get the real deal, this place is a great Plan B.
Fajardo
La Estacion
Luncheon
They are usually tucked away stalls that sell lunch boxes. Your options are usually marinated flavorful pork, blood sausage, chicken, rice and beans, and yam. This is the ultimate PR street food. I can't remember the names for ones that I visited but if you find one on your road trip, pop in and get yourself some greasy and hearty street food fix. Cash only.
Scenic Outdoorsy Spots
It'd be such a crime to not be outdoors when you are in PR. The weather is pleasant all year round and it is almost never not sunny for more than 2 minutes. What is so great about PR is that the landscape is so diverse. Within an hour of driving, you can go from a beach to a rainforest or a cave. Thus, if you have the luxury to have a car around, definitely take advance of the what the outdoors have to offer. Even if you don’t, there are still miles of coastlines for you to enjoy.
I. Beaches / Playas
Ah can there ever be too many beaches to visit? Being an island, PR has all those coastlines to offer. Based on my personal experience, however, North Coast is definitely the superior coast. As you can see in my personal travel map, all the beaches that I added as bookmarks are on the northern side of the main island, if not off the main island.
With so many beaches to choose from, I’ve simplified your comparison to this 5-dimensional score board: Accessibility, Wave Strength, Scenery, Popularity, Full-service.
Condado
Accessibility: ⭐️⭐️⭐
Wave Strength: ⭐️
Scenery: ⭐️⭐️
Popularity: ⭐️⭐️
Full-service: ⭐️⭐️⭐️
This is probably the most touristy beach in PR, for a good reason because it is so close to Old San Juan. For people who don't have a lot of time but want to get both the city and the beach experience, you can easily fit both Condado and Old San Juan into the same day. Because it is so popular among tourists, you can expect this area to be populated with fancy restaurants, cafes, shops, and bars. I'll include the dining guide for ya (here). The beach on its own, however, does not top my list because it is quite average and the waves can be quite rough. It's sufficient for a quick beach fix but not as desirable as many other beaches PR has to offer.
Ocean Park
Accessibility: ⭐️⭐️⭐
Wave Strength: ⭐️⭐️
Scenery: ⭐️⭐️
Popularity: ⭐️⭐️⭐
Full-service: ⭐️⭐️⭐
Ocean Park Beach is a stretch that is a little bit further away than Condado is from Old San Juan. It's less touristy and a lot more hipster. Thus the three-star rating for both popularity and full-service. It is definitely a hangout spot for locals and can get quite busy starting early afternoon. I'd choose it over Condado as it is more swimmable, local, and fun. Moreover, once you had enough of your beach day, Ocean Park area offers plenty of fine-dining and boutique-shopping to keep you entertained.
Luquillo
Accessibility: ⭐️⭐️
Wave Strength: ⭐️⭐️⭐
Scenery: ⭐️⭐️
Popularity: ⭐️⭐️
Full-service: ⭐️⭐️⭐️
This is a super fun local beach. It has a stretch of food stalls right by the beach. On a normal sunny day, you can see people eating, drinking, partying here. If you want to up the ante, you can even do a horse-ride passing by here. I've done mine with Hacienda Carabali. It's super unique and liberating! Luquillo beach is a little under an hour from old San Juan so not crazy far but definitely takes some effort. You can certainly fill the whole in with different activities in the area like horse-riding, hiking in El Yunque, or just having fun on the beach.
Fajardo
Accessibility: ⭐️⭐️
Wave Strength: ⭐️⭐️
Scenery: ⭐️⭐️
Popularity: ⭐️⭐️
Full-service: ⭐️⭐️
Fajardo is the west-most of the island so a bit hard to get to. However, it has its uniqueness to offer. If you want a remote natural habitat and don't mind a hike then you can check out Natural La Zanja. Note that you should check the wave conditions before venturing because the tides can get quite high and many days the beach would be completely flooded. I was recommended to go with a local to avoid getting lost or endangered. If that sounds too intense, you can still check out some more mellow beaches in the area. What is quite cool about Fajardo is that there are many beaches of different characters connected to each other. If you are into water activities, you can go to Seven Seas. Right next to Seven Seas, you also have three different beaches, Escondida, Colora, and Las Cabezas Chiquitas, connected to each other by a secret shaded path.
Of course, besides beaches, Fajardo is most known for its bio-luminescent bay. I personally have never had the luck to see the whole bay lighting up here but you can try your luck.
Rincon
Accessibility: ⭐️⭐️
Wave Strength: ⭐️⭐️⭐️
Scenery: ⭐️⭐️⭐
Popularity: ⭐️⭐️⭐️
Full-service: ⭐️⭐️⭐️
Hands down my favorite beach in the main island. The only downside is that it is quite a car-ride to get to. It is between 3 to 4 hours away from old San Juan. However, if you are a beach connoisseur, you won't regret going. I would especially recommend you to go if you are a surfer or a diver. The reefs close to the shores make for great surfs and great scenery for diving. Partially because it if so hard to get to, you can enjoy some peace and quiet in the most scenic and romantic sunset. There are quite a lot of beach resorts for you to choose from and definitely check out the Beach House for a cheeky brekkie, lunch, or happy hour. It has the cutest vibe and the best view.
Isabela
Accessibility: ⭐️⭐️
I personally have not been to this beach but I heard that it is only second to Rincon when it comes to surfing. It is just about 30 minutes before Rincon if you come from old San Juan area so I have the accessibility as two stars. Besides that, I'll need to rely on you to fill the other dimensions in.
Flamenco Beach (Culebra)
Accessibility: ⭐️
Wave Strength: ⭐️⭐️⭐️
Scenery: ⭐️⭐️⭐
Popularity: ⭐️⭐️⭐️
Full-service: ⭐️
Who wins the best beach in PR? The answer might be surprising and slightly inconvenient to you. The Flamenco/Flamingo beach on Culebra is the most serene and relaxing beach that I've visited in PR. It is off the mainland on this island called Culebra, which is to the east of the mainland.
If you are a beach connoisseur, you might have picked up that this beach has soft sand, blue water, and calm waves. All the reasons to love this place.
How does one get to this paradise? There are 3 ways: 1) by public plane, 2) by private plane, or 3) by boat. Flying is quite straight forward. Just check where the airports are since some intra-PR planes don't take off at the main airport so make sure you go to the right one. The harbor for the boat is about an hour away from the airport and the boat itself takes about 40 something minutes. It can be quite a scenic route on its own if you are not sea sick. If you take the boat, you can be rewarded with this little statue once you arrive.
II. Old San Juan + Bastion de San Antonio + Cementerio Santa Maria + Sitio Historico
Get lost in the cobble streets in Old San Juan. There are so many shops, restaurants, nooks, and bars to check out. It is super walkable and advantageously surrounded by water so you are never more than 10 minutes walk away from the water.
If you are a romantic soul like myself, I do recommend you checking out this art gallery called The Poet's Passage. It sometimes hosts exhibits as well and many times the exhibits are free. Talking about making art accessible. Am I right?
If you are a fashionable girl, then I highly recommend this gorgeous clothing store called the Pink Tree. It have its own instagram page and I love its design. So tropical and chic.
If you are tired of walking, you can check out this lush meadow at Sitio Historico. It almost reminds me of central park. Such an open space at a very historical site. It is exemplary of making history a part of your modern day lives.
III. El Yunque Rainforest
Do your lungs and eyes a favor and go visit. With the COVID restrictions, however, make sure to make a reservation on the official website so you can get in. Also, you can hike the rainforest, but the hiking trails are quick tucked away so I'd only recommend going if you have a car. No UBER driver would drive you 30 minutes into the mountains and follow you all day to pick you up at the trail end. If you do have a car and are a nature fan then this place is a must go.
IV. Cuevas / Caves
So many caves to choose from but many require reservations because of COVID. One that does not require reservation and is completely affordable is Cueva Indio. What's more, it's not only a cave, but also a beach. Reward yourself with some beach time after a short hike. Why not?
VI. Coffee Haciendas
The gourmet coffee culture recently took off in Puerto Rico. Thus if you are a coffee snob and interested in supporting the local coffee growers who just recently recovered from the aftermath of the hurricane, you can check out the coffee haciendas / plantations on the island.
The most famous one is probably Hacienda Buena Vista but it is temporarily closed because of COVID.
I went to Hacienda Pomarrosa and had a great experience. I was forced to become quite selective with coffee because of my TMJ (Temporomandibular jaw disorder). So basically unless I have good quality coffee, my jaws get wobbly. I had several cups of coffee here with even a shot an espresso and my jaws were going strong. I didn't feel a physical crash either. That says something about the quality of coffee here. Highly recommend!
Tips
Last but not least, I have some final tips!
One-day itinerary
If you are on a short trip, at least go to Condado and Old San Juan. They are not far from each other and if you really want to, you can knock both of them out in one day. Though I highly recommend spending some time in each place because there are lots of cool spots to hit up in Old San Juan and if you are at a beach you should allow for some time to relax!
Language
If you are going to stick to the touristy areas then using English is just fine. People who work and live in those areas are truly bilingual and they can swing both ways, English or Spanish.
Though if you are gonna venture a bit out, I highly recommend learning some basic Spanish phrases. Also note that PR Spanish has its own flare so don't be alarmed when you hear something that sounds somewhat like the Spain Spanish you learned from school but not exactly what you expected. For example, people say "gracie" instead of "gracias" when saying "thank you".
Transportation
If you are going to stick to the areas close to the airport, then UBER should be sufficient. It is a very affordable way to get around. Though if you want to add El Yunque to the mix then definitely rent a car.
If you just want to commute short distance and are coordinated, then you can hop on the electronic scooters, one of those BIRDs. It's so fun to ride them. There are some protected bike lanes between Old San Juan and Condado so not a bad way to go between these two places.
Essentials
Beach wears - Need I say more?
Sunglasses - See above
Sunblocks - Seriously Everybody's free to wear sunscreen
Mosquito sprays - mosquitos here are vicious. Don't forget your sprays! A must!
Negative COVID PCR test result - during COVID times.
Your smiles - This is super cheesy but I saw someone saying this in a group chat and really want to steal this line.
Well that's all I can think of at the moment. If you do end up going, I hope you have a sun-filled jolly trip!
As they say, keep your mind positive and COVID negative! Stay safe and hope this Caribbean flared post filled your day with some rays.
Until next time. Hasta la próxima amigos!
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